RC BRA Jagpanther project

Forum Jump

Author	Comment
armourguy		#21	[-]
Posts: 491 (06/12/09 14:38:26) East Coast Armory Master Artificer Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I have made some more progress on the the tank. I reinforced the tank's upper hull with fiberglass cloth and resin at the inner seams. I have had no strength problem with the tank's original solder seams however; I felt that with the added abuse and wear and tear from the RC, and the need to have access into the lower hull the joints needed to be reinforced. If the model was static I would have omitted the fiberglass reinforcement. I completed the main gun details; the kit supplies you with two straight lengths of PVC pipe. For the main barrel I made the pipe more accurate by turning the PVC pipe down to have it's proper taper. I also reworked the kit supplied Resin Gun Muzzle. The Kit supplied muzzle is a two piece assembly with very basic molded in details. I added the Baffle rings and wrench slits To connect the two lengths of pipe together I machined a new more detailed Gun Barrel adapter ring. The adapter installs in seconds, and will work for any other vehicle with the 8.8 cm KwK 43 Gun. The Ring has been added to the product line. http://www.eastcoastarmory.com/germanparts.htm After the barrel was installed the gun barrel was too heavy for the pivot and the gun drooped. To fix this I added a small length of PVC pipe with two extension springs mounted to the pipe, and the tank's gun mount. The simple addition fixed the drooping gun. The front of the tank is mostly finished, For the Bow MG Ball I will be using the Panzerwerk version. The tank's "Puzzle" weld seams were also completed using the same method I used before. I will now be moving to the tank's rear engine deck details.
armourguy		#22	[-]
Posts: 492 (06/14/09 16:54:10) East Coast Armory Master Artificer Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	On the tank's front plate I added the Panzerwerks MG ball. For the inner ball I used the one from my Tiger I MG Ball Set, the MG is also able to pivot. I will be adding weld beads later. I finished reworking the rear engine deck. Due to the way the BRA kit is assembled the stock engine deck is one flat plate, and doesn't have any of the recessed panels or panel lines. Stock Kit Engine Deck. Engine Deck Reworked The recessed panels were added by plating the entire engine deck with sheets of styrene. The recessed panels also allows for the Engine bay lid bolts to be recessed and flush into the plate. For the grills I used the kit supplied Resin ones. These grills are very nicely done and were not altered. The only addition that was fabricated was the metal mesh work. I was also able to add the inner shelf for the engine hatch. The engine hatch shelf is fabricated out of sheet metal, now the hatch won't fall inside of the tank. Next will be the remaining details to the engine deck, and the fan grills.
armourguy		#23	[-]
Posts: 493 (06/17/09 15:35:06) East Coast Armory Master Artificer Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I have made a lot more progress on the model. I have completed the tank's rear engine deck details. Underneath the tank's fan grills I mounted two PC cooling fans. These fans are to keep the electronics cool, but are also visible under the fan grills, giving the model a unique detail feature. For the fan grills themselves I used the kit supplied resin grills. The grills themselves are nicely casted. After visiting the real Jadgpanther and Panthers at Aberdeen I have seen that the fan grill edges are rounded off and have a rough cast appearance to them. The corners on the Kit supplied resin grills are squared off. I sanded down the edges to make them more like the real one. Cast marks, slabs and Cast numbers were also added to the grills. The grills were also scratch built. The larger Elevated grill required a little more work. The grill itself comes in two pieces. The main grill, and the separate hollow air duct. The main grill too long and needed to be shortened by 1/4 of an inch. I also milled out the portion of the grill that connects to the air duct. The mesh support column was replaced with a new machined one with a taper. Cast marks, numbers, and grill cover mounts were also added to these pieces. The mesh grill supports were scratch built out of steel strips and a turned own PVC retainer ring. There are a few more pieces that need to be added to complete the grill (grill covers, chain) but these will be after the tank is painted. The engine hatch detailing features the kit supplied metal Engine hatch, Kit supplied Resin armored air intakes. Scratch built engine latch key, scratch built Rear loaders hatch bump stops, scratch built brass handle and scratch built hatch stop. All of the metal parts are soldered to the hatch For the hinges I used the kit supplied resin ones, but reworked them a bit Stock Reworked The Kit supplied resin rear air intake comes as a solid resin piece. The part was hollowed out, a metal brush guard was added, and welds were added to the top plate. Stock Reworked to Secure the tank's upper hull to the Lower hull I modified the kit supplied rear cover caps to conceal two Allen Fasteners, that blend in with the detailing, but also screw into a mount that secures the two halves of the hull together. The parts themselves were also reworked detail wise. I also added a few small fasteners to secure the tank at the sponsons The final details that were added to the engine deck were the lift hooks, and the Fuel breather hose. I'm now off to the rear of the fighting compartment, which shouldn't take very long.
plasticpanzers		#24	[-]
Posts: 6090 (06/17/09 16:49:11) Division Senior Veteran Master Artificer PLASTIC PANZERS Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	That is darn cool! Real ingenuity to use the fan openings for real fans to cool the electronics!! Tim (plasticpanzers)
darknerimperator		#25	[-]
Posts: 1137 (06/19/09 02:39:14) Master Artist 1A6 Combat Action Figures Italian Forum Staff 1-MASTERPIECES-6 Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Looks fantastic!!!!!!!! Ciao, Francesco www.combat-1a6.eu
rommel1969		#26	[-]
Posts: 335 (06/19/09 07:24:40) Master Artist 1A6 Combat Action Figures Italian Forum Staff Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Very impressive work !!!! Mario www.rommel1969.it www.combat-1a6.eu
johnro6659		#27	[-]
Posts: 519 (06/19/09 09:49:26) Master Artificer The Fighting Sixth of New England Staff Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Great stuff, I love the work you do and you do it fast without sacrificing quality or detail. I wish I could get my projects done as quick, mine take me forever. I like the the PC fans to actually cool the electronics off. I saved all the old fans out of the computers we junked at work when I was in MIS. I never thought of actually using them to really cool something I usually take them apart and used the fans/blades. John Romano New England Area One-Sixth Scale
armourguy		#28	[-]
Posts: 494 (06/20/09 11:43:47) East Coast Armory Master Artificer Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Thanks everyone for the compliments. The project is trucking along on schedule. The model should be ready for paint in a week and a half. Johnro, I got some more recycled computer parts inside that I will be posting very soon I completed the rear fighting compartment wall. The kit supplies you with all the resin hatches and the radio aerial base mount and aerial base. I reworked the antenna mount giving it some bolt details, and I will be using my own Resin Antenna base. The RC receiver antenna will be run through the antenna base later. The Kit supplied rear hatch comes in 4 pieces The hatch, the large Hatch hinge, and the two extending hinge bolts. The parts have some hex bolt details. The Tank's stock rear wall has the rear hatch holecun into the plate. The hole itself is too small on the side edges by at least an 1/8th of an inch. There is also a notch cut into the plate where the hatch hinge would be allowed to pivot. The wall sides were extended and the the notch was deleted. STOCK REWORKED On the Real tank the bolts are mounted on the inside of the hatch. All that you see on the outside of the tank are holes and the back end of the bolts. I decided that it would be easier to scratch build a new hatch rather than reworking the resin one. The hatch is made out of several layers of styrene. The lower hinge was used and the molded in bolts were removed and in their spots the holes were milled into place. The interior detailing of the hatch is all scratch built. For the Hinge lugs I used two 1/4 inch Aluminum shaft. The hatch locking lugs work and will keep the hatch from opening during running. The Two end bolts were also not used and new machined ones were used in their place. The kit supplied shell ejection hatch comes in three peices the hatch, The hatch hinge, and the main hinge. The hinge is nicely shaped and the hatch has a nice bevel to it, but I felt that the Kit hatch is too large. A new hatch was machined and used in its place. I'm still doing research on what the interior of the looks like, if there are any locking tabs handles...ect. The tank's rear plate doesn't have a hole for the hatch cut into the plate, so a hole was added into the plate. I have now started on the tank's roof. Once that is complete I will then be on the Tool Posts... then off to paint :-P.
johnro6659		#29	[-]
Posts: 526 (06/20/09 17:50:13) Master Artificer The Fighting Sixth of New England Staff Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Thanks. I love finding usable items in things we used to toss out I tore everything apart and I always founs something i could use. I can't wait until the next post now! LOL John Romano New England Area One-Sixth Scale
armourguy		#30	[-]
Posts: 495 (06/24/09 00:23:23) East Coast Armory Master Artificer Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I have completed the tank's roof and Roof details. There was a lot of work that was done to this portion of the tank. The tank's top roof was one flat plate with the holes for the hatches and other component mounting holes cut into it. On the real Jagdpanther the roof armored plate sticks over the side panels. Similar to what was done to the tank's engine deck I plated the entire roof with two layers of styrene. The styrene plate was cut with the exact same hatch holes, periscope slots, and sliding periscope slots as were on the tank. The plate is smaller that the tank's roof by 1/16th of an inch on all sides to allow for the armor recesses and to allow for the weld seams. The portion of the front glacis plate which intersects the roof also needed to be built up with sheet styrene, only a slope was added. Stock Metal Roof Completed For the roof details I pretty much used all of the kit supplied resin components. These components were a good start for reworking. The first was the front gunners Periscope mount. The Kit mount is made up of four resin components. The armored ring, the center portion, the flip hatch for the gunner's scope, and the secondary periscope guard. A taper was added to the main ring, along with casting marks and cast numbers. The gunner's scope flip hatch was made functional and will hold the location for the receiver switch. The secondary periscope is my own casting and is from a scrap set of my Resin Puma hatches. The Kit supplied resin small air filter was also altered. The top was reduced in size, a bevel was added. The four divots were machined into the top portion, and rough cast marks were added. The bottom portion has the correct footings so there was no need to alter the bottom portion. Stock Reworked http://eastcoastarmory.com/forumPic/jagdpanther/roof/DSC00058.JPG The kit supplied Resin large main air filer comes in two solid pieces. The bottom portion and the top portion The top portion was too thick and was too large and was not used. The bottom portion has six pegs for the air filter top. The pegs are in the right spots and have the right number, but the air filter top is not mounted on pegs, but several fins that surround a center hole. The hole was drilled into the center, and the fins were fabricated out of styrene. a new top was fabricated and the side mounting brackets were also scratch built. The Resin kit supplied rear periscope comes as three pieces. The center, the Retaining ring, and the periscope guard A bevel was added to the retaining ring, and the molded in bolt heads were removed and small reverse bolts were milled into the retaining ring. I was able to make the resin periscope center rotate. The Kit supplied Resin smoke grenade discharger was reworked by removing the molded in bolt heads, and placing a styrene plate over the oval mortar hole. STOCK Reworked The Kit supplied Resin crane bosses were fine as is and were not altered in any way. They were added to the tank, but with weld seams added. The Kit's AT swivel plate is laser cut and looks like the proper shape. The part also comes with a small resin slide plate. The Resin slide plate was too small and was not used. New slide plates were scratch built. The kit also doesn't come with the AT scope. One will be added after the tank is painted. To install the part I soldered a brass rod to the bottom of the plate. The rod is bent in a hook so the AT scope will plug into position. supplied Resin periscope guards are also nicely shaped and casted. They also have a nice rough cast texture to them and were also used as is. The Kit supplied resin hatches come in six pieces. The two hatches and the hinge components. The hatches have a nice bevel to them, but have no interior detailing. A scratch built interior was added, as were the fastener details on the hatch tops. When installing the rear Commanders hatch I realized that the hatch was too close to the rear wall. The hole needed to be moved to the front by a about 1/2 an inch. The new position of the hatch was marked in green. The black markings were the size of the hole that needed to be made. Using a large drill mounted sanding drum I ground away the plastic and metal to cerate the new hole. Once the hole was made I needed to replace the portion that was on the opposite end of the new hole. I used sheet styrene to fill in the gap and sanded the top to a smooth finish. The Rain gutters were also added. These didn't come with the kit per say. The Kit does supply you with laser cut strips of steel that are used for the X crimping on the rear storage bins and front fenders. I will not need these strips for this purpose so they were spares and were a perfect size and thickness for the gutters. Welds were also added to the MG ball and Driver's vision port I'm now working on the tank's sheet metal fenders and tool posts. Once these are complete the tank's detailing is finished and the model will be ready for paint!
Loke666		#31	[-]
Posts: 2832 (06/24/09 00:34:07) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Fantastic work!! When I see work with such detail and fuctionality - I glad I'm not building a wehicle at the same time.... Henrik I have one Desire let it be a Pestilence upon your lands a Plague upon all your houses it is my wish to Enslave all your people The soil enriched with their Blood To Burn your places of Worship Our Gods shall become your Gods
johnro6659		#32	[-]
Posts: 539 (06/24/09 13:32:09) Master Artificer The Fighting Sixth of New England Staff Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Boy, it took a long time for this to load! LOL I am not complaining because I love the pics I am so happy that you post so many it really gives a good look at what you go thru when building your projects. I save every pic just in case I ever need them for reference in the future. All that aside, it's looking better and better every time I look I can't wait to see it painted and weathered. I really want to get a BRA kit when I get some extra dough. John Romano New England Area One-Sixth Scale
armourguy		#33	[-]
Posts: 497 (07/04/09 08:34:07) East Coast Armory Master Artificer Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I have made a lot more progress on the model. The model's exterior is 98% complete. I'm currently waiting on some parts to finish up the tool posts. Once they are complete the model will head into painting. I have also completed the last of the model's electronics. The tank uses two 4QD Vortex speed controllers. To cool off the Speed controllers I recycled a Pentium II and III processor motherboard Heat sinks from two old scrap computer motherboards. The speed controllers are mounted in two plastic project boxes. To aid with the air flow holes were cut into the boxes. The tank's exhausts are controlled by another separate speed controller that provides throttle control for the model. This way I can have the exhausts simulate engine idle and acceleration. A battery powered fuel pump has been added to the tank to refuel the smoke generator. This is the same system that I have in my other 1/6th scale RC tanks. The in tank refueler systems eliminates any smoke fluid spills that can ruin the tank's paint job. As I mentioned earlier the tank's main power switch is located in the let hand rear storage Bin. In the other storage bin I have the switches and small batteries for the Radio Receiver, and other functions. On the tank's exterior I have completed most of the tank's side details including the spare track racks and the side fenders. The tank's spare track racks were the kit supplied laser cut sheet metal ones. The only extra detail that was added has been the soldered mounts for the lock pin chains. The Kit supplied fenders were not used a new sheet metal ones were fabricated. The Tow Hook hinged portion was also made to be functional. The Kit supplied transport cable rack and tool box racks were not used a new metal replacements were fabricated out of sheet metal and spare kit supplies metal strips. I also fabricated the tank's gun cleaning kit / antenna storage tube out of PVC, brass, and my own resin latches. The two rear upper hull armor holes were filled with a piece of scrap steel that was soldered into place. The road wheel hub cap axel holes were plugged and sanded smooth The kit supplies you wit laser cut sheet metal side skirts. These skirts are nicely done and no alterations are needed to be made The kit supplies you with a solid resin Bosh head light. The head light itself is acceptable, but I replaced the kit supplied version with a hollow panzerwerk Bosh light. I was able to wire an LED inside of the head light making it functional. Also the level of detail on the panzerwerk headlight is phenomenal! To access the light I was able to make the black out cover removable. For the cooling Fan and front head light power switch I was able to conceal the switch in the front gunners periscope hatch. Once the tool posts are complete the tank will head off into painting, which will probably be after the holiday. Have a safe and fun 4th of July everyone
HeavyGang		#34	[-]
Posts: 377 (07/04/09 08:45:13) Master Artist http://www.picturetrail.com/heavygang Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	You truely are second to none. Unreal craftsmenship. Steve
B Hellqvist		#35	[-]
Posts: 2770 (07/04/09 10:37:12) Master Artist Division Regular Bronze Björns svärdssida Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Incredible build! I wish I had half your skill and all the time... Try 2/12th scale figures. Twice the detail!
johnro6659		#36	[-]
Posts: 556 (07/04/09 11:11:15) Master Artificer The Fighting Sixth of New England Staff Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Amazing! The electronics seem like they must have been a project all in their own! I see where you used the other PC parts. I can't wait to see this one finished, painted and weathered. I am very surprised at how fast you can drive your project home considering you also make and cast your amazing own stuff. John Romano New England Area One-Sixth Scale
armourguy		#37	[-]
Posts: 498 (07/08/09 14:04:20) East Coast Armory Master Artificer Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I completed the tool posts and the model has now been painted. The Kit supplies you with laser cut tool post frames. The frames themselves are nicely shaped and appear to be to scale. For the tool clamps and posts I added my own brass versions that were soldered to the steel. Stock Reworked. The sledge hammer tool posts are half scratch built and half kit reworked. The model was painted in it's final prime. The tank's base color has also been added Now the tank is off to get its cammo. Now the fun can begin!
darknerimperator		#38	[-]
Posts: 1152 (07/09/09 14:18:23) Master Artist 1A6 Combat Action Figures Italian Forum Staff 1-MASTERPIECES-6 Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Incredible..... really incredible!!!!!!!!!! Ciao, Francesco www.combat-1a6.eu
armourguy		#39	[-]
Posts: 499 (07/09/09 18:48:17) East Coast Armory Master Artificer Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I have applied the tank's cammo pattern. The model is now off for its markings and weathering.
armourguy		#40	[-]
Posts: 500 (07/12/09 19:17:33) East Coast Armory Master Artificer Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	The tank's Markings and weathering are complete. Once the model gets its tools and a few other small items it is ready for the field :-P

<< Previous Topic Next Topic >>

Add Reply

Yuku free message boards

RC BRA Jagpanther project

Quick Reply